Thursday, June 11, 2009

Life, Death and the Beauty in between

Day 8

I made sure that my back was in top working order for today we went to the famous cemetery Pere la Chaise. Now the number of people inhabiting this cemetery is impressive seeing as how it has reached over 300,000 people between burials and those that chose cremation. This is impressive but not that staggering for while in the Army I was stationed at Ft. Myer in Arlington, Virginia. This is the location of the Arlington National Cemetery which has well over that number as is still growing steadily. But what did stagger me, and yes I will admit brought me to tears with some of the people buried here, was the beauty the French try to achieve even with death. Also some of the inhabitants of this cemetery came as a shock to me as well.

To name some of the celebrities that I knew were here, Jim Morrison who was famous but did nothing to warrant the defacement of the other gravestones around his grave by idiots; I don’t care if he was the Lizard King. I also was familiar with the fact that Oscar Wilde was buried here from previous discussions held during this trip, but what I didn’t know was that he used to be anatomically correct until some overzealous admirer/enemy removed the necessary appendage. Another thing that surprised me was that both men and women would put on lipstick and kiss the grave marker. This sounds like a lovely way to get sick to me.
Now as to the celebrities that I was not aware of being buried here were people such as Frederic Chopin, whom I have been of a lover of his music since I was 5 years old. Thanks for that mom. Also Gertrude Stein, Sarah Bernhardt, and Moliere to name just a few that are buried in this beautiful piece of ground. Not to mention the fiancé of Maximilien Robespierre, to my great lament I can not remember her name.
These parts were impressive in a surreal sort of way but what brought me to tears were the different ways in which the warriors who had fallen to protect France either of French blood or from other countries were honored here. Being someone who has seen several friends of mine end up being fallen warriors who never received the honor due them, I must say that am proud to see that someone does appreciate there fallen warriors. For the monuments raised in the section in honor of people sent to concentration camps in World War Two, to the commandos who fought against the Nazis, to the people with the guts to stand up to the Nazi occupation which normally led their death. This is always the downside to fighting against a ruthlessly oppressive force. I just hope that whatever faith those people transcribed to was able to help them in their time of need and that their souls rest in peace.

This is the conclusion to my Paris trip for the next day we got on a plane and said goodbye to Paris with all of its culture and beauty. Now I will admit I originally went on this trip for the sole reason of keeping my wife company and to keep her safe. But this trip opened my eyes to another culture that I could see myself happily merging with and hope that anyone else who reads this will at least be a little inspired to try and experience what Paris has to offer for themselves.

Beauty, horror, and unachieved peace

Day 7

Today was the day that first we went to the famous cathedral of Notre Dam. Here we read aloud as a group some excerpts from the Hunchback of Notre Dam by Victor Hugo. Here we also discussed the concepts of Gothic architecture and how the Gothic ideal was the primary theme in the story. For in the story there is a representative of great beauty as well as great ugliness, and there is the hope of romance which is dashed by the world and all of its inherent cruelty, ending in the brutal death of both of the main characters. This combined with a real jerk for an antagonist makes for a really depressing tale, which falls in with the Gothic ideal of beauty and hoped wrapped in corruption and cruelty.

This cathedral also has the Rose Window, which was completed in about 1225 A.D. The window in Notre Dam in particular is responsible for the placement of several of it’s like in other cathedrals throughout the country. I was particularly fascinated with not only the intricate detail in that enormous window, but with the amazing details in the sculptors on the front of the chapel depicting everything from the Garden of Eden to the weighing of souls at the gates of heaven. Talk about a reminder to keep with the doctrine.

Next we went as a group to the Trocadero overlooking much of Paris including the Eiffel Tower. Here we took several group and individual pictures for the families and friends back in the states. One thing that surprised me while this was taking place was that people from all different nationalities would stop and stare at us seeming to try and figure out what the heck we were doing. I guess this is to be expected when a group of people stand around with a dry erase board making funny faces at each other with messages on the board. In retrospect it does seem rather comical in that context.

Something else that has been brought to my attention since this took place was that the Trocadero is the location of the famous picture of Adolf Hitler with the Eiffel Tower in the background. Now I have no love for that particular set of event, but I must say that it was fascinating to be standing in the same place that something with that much historical significance took place. This also gives me pointed reminder in the necessity of understanding different cultures to avoid events like that from ever happening again.

Unfortunately I was unable to continue much beyond this due to the fact that my back decided to slip out alignment on the way to the scheduled picnic, for which I am profoundly regretful for the park we were supposed to go to looked beautiful and peaceful which I must admit that I missed in the large city environment of Paris. So I had to proceed back to the hotel with as much expediency as could be managed to get my spine back into alignment so as to be able to continue on the next days festivities.

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

A view, stairs, and an accidental find

Day 6
Today was the day that we were released to our own devices for the day. The only guidance given was to enjoy the city. So I, my wife, and a few more of the group decided to go out for an adventure. I forget who came up with the idea of going to the Montmartre which has an amazing basilica overlooking the entirety of Paris from the top of a huge hill. The stairs were an utter nightmare, each time you thought you were almost done you would look up from the angle you had just achieved only to find another hundred or so left. Now the Montmartre district is known as a nightclub district but we never had the energy to pursue this aspect of the area. But what we did find there was a cultural smorgasbord of people, music, art, and cheap souvenirs. Loud boisterous salesman trying to peddle their wares while a French musician sings covers of American songs for the tourists, he wasn’t bad either, on the steps leading away from the basilica. The view from up there of Paris strangely reminded me of a short time I spent in Beirut, the buildings from that distance look very similar to the houses I saw over there in Lebanon.
Upon coming back from this little venture out in to the city a smaller group of us got together and went to the Impressionist Museum or the Musee de Orsay, this was nice on several levels not only because my wife Cat and I are both greatly interested in several of the artists displayed in this museum but we both were able to get in at half price since we were under 30. This museum was originally a train station but has since been converted to a museum holding several thousand pieces of Impressionist art. While there I was able to see both of Van Gogh’s self portraits, unfortunately The Lilly, Starry Night, and his Sunflower were currently on tour but there were approximately over thirty different pieces from Van Gogh just in this small part of this museum. This doesn’t even come close to the other artists on display from Renoir, to Monet, to Manet, to Degas, just to name a bare scraping of the colossal amount of famous works housed in this museum. I’ll stop here or I’ll be here all night discussing what I witnessed in this magical building.
After we returned to the hotel from this little excursion Cat and I got Chinese takeout and couldn’t finish everything so we invited some of the group up for food then decided to go out for one last look at the city and explore our actual neighborhood. This ended up being an awesome time for we found yet another basilica with an actual moat. While marveling at this site which we will never see in America we see the Eiffel Tower in the distance and want to try to get to it to see it light up with its little light show. So after bumbling around for about half an hour trying to judge where the tower was in relation to where we were, we turned a corner and are looking at the base of the tower with people all over the place doing just what we were doing. But as luck would have not two minutes after we arrived that the tower started its flashing light show, talk about killer timing. So this day can be called nothing but an enormous success.

Art, Revolution, and Symbols

Day 5

Now by this time the group is looking a little like a walking “Thriller” video. I am just happy that I thought to bring some mole skin otherwise I don’t think that most of the group would be up for going anywhere. But today we went through another old part of Paris passing by a Jewish Orthodox synagogue. Standing outside of this temple there were two police officers heavily armed which gave me a perfect example of why to be careful in a big city in any country regardless of how safe it might seem. Now, on to the point of today’s expedition, the Carnavalet museum with its rich contents regarding the French Revolutions.

Seeing as how we are mostly the walking wounded at this point I was worried about all of the stairs, at least until I went inside then I couldn’t be stopped from seeing the entirety of the museum and what it had to offer.

This museum was one of the biggest learning experiences for me so far on this trip. Just seeing the intestinal fortitude displayed by the French during the times of war, famine, disease, and oppression is incredible. Also one of the things that I was previously unaware of was that the French basically backed us during our revolution in 1776, not only with training and manpower, but also financially. This is surprising to me especially due to the common opinion that Americans have toward the French. This seeming opinion dates back to long before the current state of international affairs which is puzzling as to the fickle mentality of governments. It makes me wonder why anyone trusts anyone, for necessity is never a good reason for necessity always ends up changing.

Back to the museum, I found it incredible that the French show the executions of the royals and leaders of the Revolutions with equal impartiality. I also found it disturbingly moving how the French people have on display how they suffered during their times of war and strife. They don’t throw it in your face like some groups do, rather than this they set up these different museums for anyone who is curious to see what they went through so we hopefully can learn from their mistakes.

There is one thing I also wish to discuss concerning the artwork from the different revolutions. Now I am no expert on symbolism, nor am I a Masonic scholar, I also am not a member of the Freemason organization. But there were several references of seemingly Masonic symbols on multiple pieces of artwork from the early stages of the French Revolution. This is curious upon finding out that the French government was essential to getting our revolution off of the ground, especially when you consider how many of our forefathers of this country were known Masons and there seems to be a prevalent placement of Masonic symbols throughout the artwork in this museum. These images include repeated appearances of The All Seeing Eye, such as on the back of the American one dollar bill, and the Square and Compass.

Wine, Philosophy, and the other assurance

Day 4

This was the day we went to the Catacombs under Paris. The most important part of what I learned during this particular trek was summed up in one word, “DUCK!!!!!!!” The people of 19th century France were much more vertically challenged than I am standing roughly 188 centimeters.

Anyway, other than the height difference I must say the Catacombs were very beautiful, amazing, and staggering in an extremely macabre sort of way. But I have to marvel at the dedication of the people who placed all of the literally millions of bones in all of those caves. The respect that the French people have for those who have passed incredible from the flowers, to the days of remembrance, to the museums dedicated to keeping the memory of what has happened, to the different places for laying the dead to rest. The miles and miles of corridors both naturally formed and those that were carved out are amazing both in the engineering skill involved, but also just the thought that these tunnels are under the feet of a city that is larger than Los Angeles. This seems like one of Paris’ little secrets, mostly for the locals and those interested in the French/Parisian cultures. I am also endlessly glad that the Catacombs have cordoned off to only one path so no one will get lost down any of the other passages which have been utilized down there.

Another thing we did n this day was to have two intellectual discussions on Existentialism and Ernest Hemmingway, these were discussions meant for different levels of scholastic placement within the group. I was fortunate enough to get to sit in on both. The Existentialism discussion, which took place at the Café de Fleur for the graduate students in the group, was insightful both in the culinary peculiarities of the French, but also in the frame of mind that this philosophical point of view brings forth. As to the first I learned that I DO NOT like what the French people use for cheese. All I can say to that is never again!!!!!!!! Now as to the philosophical point of view it was refreshing being in a philosophical discussion with a predominantly female group for it was more intellectually explorative than most discussions I have had lately with a mostly male circle. These always seem to end up either in agreement or almost coming to blows for some reason.

The second discussion was held for the undergraduates at the infamous Café Deux Magot, a popular hangout for the likes of Ernest Hemmingway. During this discussion we ordered both white and red wines and received the full tourist treatment from the waiter who was more than happy to help us with wine selections he thought we would like, I must comment that he helped us with what he thought we would like not what would empty our wallets. But I digress, as to the discussion we read from “A Traveling Feast” from Ernest Hemmingway and related to how this described Paris. A little into the discussion it was brought to our attention by two accommodating French businessmen that we were sitting in the corner normally inhabited by Ernest Hemmingway so that he could survey the restaurant/street for the pretty ladies.

All you need is Lourve

Day 3: The Louvre

This was a day that I personally was only marginally looking forward to, but my wife was so giddy with excitement and couldn’t hold still with the thought of looking at the Egyptian Doorway exhibit that she got me excited with the thought of it. The entrance to the Louvre is a very modern piece of architecture that I got the impression of having mixed feelings about from the general public. Some thought it was an eyesore, while others seemed to think that the clear pyramids covering the entrance down into the Louvre as an example of how Paris is progressing with the modern era while keeping in touch with its history. My thoughts are that they were well used in the movie “The Da Vinci Code”, but all I could really see with them was the headache it would be to keep clean. What can I say, in some things I am a romantic, and in others I am hopelessly practical.

Now unfortunately my wife Cat started to get overheated in the waiting area for us to get our tickets to tour the different exhibits, and started to get sick. Needless to say we were separated from the group during these events so we ended up going on our own little tour while trying to find the rest of the group. This was predominantly unsuccessful but in the process we did accidentally get to see the majority of the Louvre.

I say accidentally because in the process of looking for the group we saw signs for the Mona Lisa and thought what the heck since we are in the area we may as well try to see her. We were unsuccessful with the Mona Lisa but we did end up turning a corner and came face to face with the Venus de Milo. We were both shocked and gratified that there seemed to be an ebb in the flow of tourists for we were able to get clear picture of her. I must say that after all of the pictures I have seen of this remarkable sculptor it was incredible to see her in person, not to mention that fact that every picture I have ever seen truly does not do her justice. Another piece of artwork that we accidentally came across was “Winged Victory”, this piece is another one that the pictures have never been able to capture properly it seems for I had no idea it that big.

There is one other thing that I would like to touch on; the French are no ruder than anyone else. During this stay at the Louvre we encountered both sides of this particular coin. While the lady who takes the tickets was an incredibly abusive…lets leave it at wench. But her boss was an incredibly sweet young woman who apparently gave us tickets to the entire museum free of charge, just so we would have no problem trying to find anyone. Needless to say the ticket collector was unhappy with this. But I can see where she was coming from being a customer service employee in the most visited museum in the world; I have seen Americans act worse than she did in much less stressful jobs.

Also due to Cat continuing to feel terrible we cut the trip short and started our first lesson on understanding the Metro without any assistance. We passed that test with flying colors. BOOYAH!!!!!!

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Paris Day Two: Beauty, Faith, and Blisters

Day 2

On the second day of the trip the group is looking a little shell shocked. But this is to be expected, anyway in my opinion of what we experienced on this day definitely was worth seeing and still stands out as one of the more awe inspiring sites of this trip. To call Sainte-Chapelle, (or Holy Chapel) breathtaking is overindulgent while at the same time idiotically oversimplified. But when I try to think of anything better my imagination fails me. But I digress, as to what I learned at Sainte-Chapelle. I learned that it was built in 1246, making it 531 years older than the U.S.A., primarily to house the Crown of Thorns and fragments from the True Cross by Louis IX. The main chapel was Gothic in its architecture using light color and space for inspiration. This is all very dry and technical but I challenge even the hardest skeptic out there not to feel at least awestruck by the very magnitude of the main chapel. I personally am an Agnostic but I could VERY easily see how this room could inspire faith. The stained glass windows, the murals on the walls and floor, even the stairs to the raised pew were art. But that is enough of that I could write all day on this chapel.

Next we went to the Concierge, which was where Maximilien Marie Isidore de Robespierre; one of the primary people responsible for the French Revolution, was held before he was guillotined. Marie Antoinette was held here as well, though in slightly better quarters. I must say that I personally feel that Marie definitely benefited from the romantic nature of the French; seriously making a chapel out of her holding cell seems a little extreme. Now I admit there is not as much here as with the chapel earlier but a jail is still a jail no matter what you do with it.

Now the final stop for the day was none other than the palace at Versailles. I have to hand it to the French, they have style. The gates alone were worth the travel to get there. But once we made it inside the beauty was literally jaw dropping. One could spend weeks in there and not see everything fortunately the crowds were pretty light so we made good time through the palace. On thing that thoroughly impressed me was the technical ability of the artists back then. For the paintings on the huge domed ceilings actually seemed to be more detailed than the paintings, for sure they were more dramatic than any of the paintings on any of the walls. One other thing I feel is essential to any description of Versailles would be the Hall of Mirrors; this would have been utterly breathtaking if it weren’t for the windows at Sainte-Chapelle from earlier in the day. I was glad to make it through the palace at least once, for I was unable to continue down into the gardens kept by Marie Antoinette, this was actually fortuitous for I was able to round up all of the people who had gotten turned around in the palace.